About beadworks (c&a)

Beadworks, that has been made in pursuance with different craft techniques like knitting, embroidery, crochet, weaving etc. has been done for eternity. According to a web source about embroidery history has beadworks been found from a Cro-Magnon hunters fossilized remains near Vladimir in Russia. The remains which has been located to 30 000 B.C. had clothing, boots and hat made of fur that were strongly decorated with ivory beads. Since then has beadworks been used all over the world in many cultures and classes. Different techniques and materials, everything from extremely rare and expensive precious stones and pearls, to massproduced plastic and glass beads, has affected on great variety of the beadworks, together with cultural features.

I find bead embroidery very interesting. Since I've never done it before, I was lucky to get familiar with a publication by Helena Semenoff about Skolt Sámis traditions regarding bead embroidery. The publication presents a lot of fine examples about bead embroidery traditions among the Skolt Sámis but also simple embroidery techniques.

My aim is to produce bead embroidery as decoration of a simple top that I will make of woollen cloth. The idea is not to use any specific pattern but more to sketch by embroidery.

Experiencing Iceland

I like to share my experiences from Iceland even if the journey wasn't a part of my productions. The meeting of Cirrus network took me there on January 2010 and I have to say that it was indeed a fascinating experience! Many thanks to collaborators from Iceland Academy of Arts. First of all I must mention that no wonder that the surroundings of Iceland is such a source of inspiration for creativity. The bare island surrounded by an ocean gives a dramatical effect. And the land, which is basicly of lava, is constantly alive. Very powerful and dynamic! I remember somebody sometimes said that art, which is made by people, should affect at the same way on our feelings than the phenomenons of nature. Then it's good art!

The Icelanders (ca. 320 000), have adapted very well the living on extraordinary island whis has been settled only 1200 years ago. They've created for example sustainable ways to produce energy from hot water in the earth. Hot water including minerals is also used for well-being. I'm very glad that I had a chance to experience a lot even if the journey took jus a few days and most of it was about working. Especially a visit by thunderous ocean and a soak in the Blue Lagoon were memorable!

Source of inspiration & an idea (c&a)

Elsa Montell, one of the greatest textile artists in Lapland, has made an impressive work especially during the time of "Taidekutomo Lapin Raanu" a company which was specialised in traditional type of woolen lapish rugs. Traditional rugs called raanu are representig the folk art of Lapland and particularly indiginenous people of Northern Europe, the Sámis. Specially the Skolt Sámis rugs are most freely and asymmetrical designed. Elsas work among the rugs has been a great respect for that.

The yarn used for rugs made in Taidekutomo Lapin Raanu, was dyed both artificially and vegetably. Elsas skills regarding vegetable dyening are remarkable and had a great affect on the spectacular colour combinations of the rugs.

Elsa got inspiration from "the essence of nature and things in life (Tenkama, Ylimartimo 1998)." She spent during her studies a lot of time in the wilderness of Lapland, specially on summertime. At the same she got to know very well the lifestyle of people in the North. These experiences came over her artistic works.

"The designing of asymmetrical raanus sprang from the desire of this observer of nature to see the horizon, the sky, land and sea (Tenkama, Ylimartimo 1998)."

I find the works of Elsa Montell very inspirative. Especially her skills to create landscapes of horisontally composed colours is thrilling! Elsas work has'nt been very much researched yet, but a excellent rewiev on her as a textile artist is a book called "Arktinen horisontti" (Arctic horizon) publiced by Akatiimi Oy and edited by Pirkko Tenkama and Sisko Ylimartimo on year 1998.

http://kauppa.akatiimi.fi/?open=11

"The Sámi live in four countries: Norway, Sweden, Finland and Russia. The 7 500 Sámi that live in Finland belong to the three goups: the North Sámi, the Inari Sámi and the Skolt Sámi. Each group has its own language. There are also differences in the traditional clothing styles and other traditions (Lehtola 2006)."

The traditional Sámi clothing are linking individuals with the community. The clothes tell in which family, village or area individuals belong to. The clothes are also living with the changes of culture and generations and have adapted for example new materials with the passage of time. The usage of purchased materials did extend the usage of materials provided from the nature to such materials as silk, silver, beads and decorative bands. Decorative bands have been used a lot especially in the North Sámi clothings. Composed bands on the sleeve or the hem of a Sámi coat is not done randomly. The composions hide a code which tells for example in which family individuals belong to.

I didn't manage to find much information about Sámi clothing in the web, especially in english (if you know good web sites just let me know!) but here is a link to Craftsmuseums website in Finland and an exhibition about Sámi crafts held there on year 2007.

http://www.craftmuseum.fi/poro/poromateriaalina/saamenpuvuista.html

An excellent publication about Sámi handicrafts is "Sámi Duodji", a catalogue published for the Jubilee Exhibition of the Sámi Handicraft Association's 30th Anniversary. The catalogue is published by Sámi museum - Saamelaismuseosäätiö & Sámi Duodji ry on year 2006.

The composions made of ready made decorative bands is interesting and especially combining it with the idea of a landscape made of horizontal stripes. I've been gestating the thought about combining these two ideas and have came up with designing a widish belt for a woman. A belt divides usually a persons character horizontally which makes it an interesting accessory. And why not make it an extremely dominant part of an outfit. A real showstopper!

I'm now on stage, with the designing of the belt, that I've acquired a set of decorative bands and have started to 'paly' with the composions. The idea is to create an impression of a sun set during the spring winter time here in Lapland.

And here is a set of slightly different composions.


Bibliography:

Tenkama P. & Ylimartimo S. Arktinen horisontti, Jokivarren värjäri Elsa Montell ja hänen taiteensa. Akatiimi Oy, Helsinki 1998.

Lehtola J. (writer) & Hartikainen A. (editor). Sámi Duodji = Saamenkäsityö = Sámi Handicraft. Sámi Dyodji ry, Inari 2006.

Preface

I'm working as a Lecturer of Industrial design in the University of Lapland. Industrial design is based on co'operation between a designer and a customer. This affects on character of the design work done. It's aim is to satisfy different needs of the customer and their customers, which are influenced on different values, the law, production etc. All designing is not though based on a relation with a customer. The aim of a design process can also be very individual. As an extreme example of this is the tuning phenomenon which usually aims to personify mass produced products.

The designing requires creativeness nevertheless for who, how or why it is done. Creative thinking helps to solve different challenges of a design process. I find it very important to do creative works also as a part of teaching job. At its best it can be also a broad-minded learning process.

My coming creative productions are not going to be customer based. They will be a personal introduction in to the fields of crafts and jewellery. Traditional handicrafts, techiques, usage of materials, colours and patterns are fascinating and inspirative. Also the individual and collective meanings, that products achieve to people, are very interesting. These factors will lead the following processes that I will start with a hope of a period that breeds me a little bit as a designer.

The next coming processes will be composed of two productions. I will design first of all a set of jewellery together with my husband Sami and secondly clothes and accessories. A little mark on the topics, (j) and (c&a), is ment to make it easier to follow the separate processes.